Gertsamtkunstwerk

Lizard Point

Lizard Point is the southernmost point of mainland Great Britain and according to both my guide books is as Land's End should be.

We were very lucky with the weather. Gloomy when we set off, bright for the journey, heavy shower when we stepped out of the car, and bright again by the time we had finished coffee, and increasingly sunny and warm throughout the rest of the day.

It isn't possible to drive to the Point, so the Village Green is given over to parking. A shame for the Village Green but great for small independent businesses and a pleasant stroll down to the sea. 

I don't think we walked the right way to the Coastal Path. I followed signs, and it started off okay, along a road lined with houses on one side and a field and views on the other. I was convinced I saw something that appeared to be a reptile, a lizard perhaps, but it ran under a car before I could photograph it. The Lizard peninsular has no connection to lizards or any other type of reptiles. The dominant geology is Serpentinite rocks, which has no connection to snakes, but derives from the metamorphic process that formed them. 

At a junction, we had to make a decision and I chose 'Bridlepath'. This got us to the Coastal Path, but I could not imagine taking a horse down there. Narrow, a hedgerow rich with insects - butterflies and dragonflies rather than wasps, thankfully - steep, and uneven underfoot.Worth it for the view, though!

We reached a small bend in the Coastal Path overlooking a rocky cove. At the time I wrote "I have come to the conclusion that you simply can't have too many photos of waves breaking against rocks", but, after I had edited all my holiday photos, I revised this opinion!

   

We paused at a viewpoint from where the previous occupants had spotted a  seal, but Jimmy hates seals. This stems from our 2003 Scotland holiday when we went on not one but two boat trips that included close-ups of seal colonies that stunk to high heaven!

The coastal path took us above the disused and rotting lifeboat station. This closed in 1961 and was relocated to a less rocky part of the coast.

 

 Wikipedia article on the various Lizard Lifeboat Stations.

There is a board commemorating the wreck of the SS Suevic in March 1907. This resulted in the largest rescue in the RNLI's history - over 500 people rescued, with no loss of life. The Independent published an article to mark the anniversary:

 the captain of the Suevic who conducted the evacuation while calmly smoking his cigar, not once letting the ash fall to the ground

We stopped off at the Wave Crest café, a little gem, serving Teapigs in a pot and a selection of home-baked cakes: I had a tasty fresh slice of almond and cherry cake.

Around the corner was the actual Lizard Point and suddenly dozens if not hundreds of people. Previously we had met relatively few people, all with sensible shoes, sensible cameras, sensible clothes. But at the epicentre of the tourist spot are people who make you wonder why they're their. Shoes more suitable for trudging round shopping precincts or hanging out in nightclubs. Possibly only stepping out of the car to take an Applephone snap and tick somewhere else off the list.

Of course one shouldn't judge - every individual's circumstances are different and private. For example, I saw a woman in the car park, struggling to walk. She was about my age and I would guess that she suffered from some arthritic or rheumatic disorder. I noticed that she wore fashion court shoes. Albeit flat, but with no cushioning and they appeared to be too tight for her feet. I often have problems walking, and have found that wearing solid supportive cushioned walking boots make a massive difference. I often find a walking pole helps, too. So I find examples such as this woman frustrating and I have to resist the urge to offer advice. My comments from sadness not from anger or judgementalism.

We walked to the Lighthouse but didn't go in. It was such a gloriously hot day it seemed a pity to waste it. 

 

 
I concluded there are few experiences that beat a clifftop walk in bright sunshine, especially when the sun is warm but not hot. I guess some people are put off by imagining that they have walk 20 miles or more and dress head-to-toe in serious walking attire. But I have fairly limited mobility, and find that as long as I have sturdy shoes and sensible street clothes, I do just fine. I contrast my high spirits, my serotonin and adrenaline hit, with the bored, gloomy or puzzled faces of those that venture only a few yards from the car park. Ruth, who is walking round the entire coast of the UK, has remarked on how few people venture more than a hundred yards from the car park and I would agree; as a GP I'm sure she has a greater insight - and frustration  - than I do about the benefits these people are missing out on!

Lizard to Predannack Head - from Ruth's Coastal Walk

Kynance Cove to Lizard Point and An apology, and a beautiful Lizard Point sunset- from What's Wild in Cornwall

Cornwall - Lizard point from Discombob's Blog

Cornwall: walking the Lizard peninsula - from the Telegraph Travel (not overtly stated but appears to be a 'paid-for' trip)

It's changed since we were there.

Most southerly cove in Britain reopens to public at Lizard Point from West Briton

I suspect most of the coast of South and South Western England has changed since I visited (I was in Bournemouth in early February; there was rockfall just two weeks later  (watch video)

Sydenham Hill Woods

We went here almost, perhaps entirely, by accident. One of those days when you drive around a little aimlessly, so unsure where you're going that you end up having to pay the toll on College Road Dulwich. 

On Crescent Wood Road, we saw several cars parked, and various people heading to an open gate outside which was a sign for the Green Chain. Seemed silly not to explore!

Immediately we descended a long staircase which brought us into the woods and almost immediately onto the path of an old railway line. This was the Crystal Palace and South London Junction Railway which opened in 1865. The last service was in 1954 and the track was lifted in 1956. Along with neighbouring Dulwich Wood, this is the largest part of the ancient Great North Wood. It is managed by the London Wildlife Trust. The disused tunnel is now a roost for bats.

We visited in mid-April last year. The previous months had been exceptionally wet. A key feature of many of our Spring walks - and ensuing blogposts - was the considerable amount of mud and standing water. Not so much standing water here, but certainly lots of mud. I was glad I was wearing my walking boots; they needed a good scrub down later. I would guess it will be equally - if not more - muddy for the foreseeable future

I'm not sure how far we walked because although I set 'My Tracks' app on my phone, I forgot to turn it off when we got back in the car, so the stats told me we covered 8 miles. Google suggests that it's 4 miles from home, but because of traffic congestion we didn't drive the most direct route. So the walk wasn't notable for its length although really quite strenuous. We completely lost our bearings and wandered around aimlessly and in circles. It turned out we had crossed to the far side of Dulwich Wood, and ended up having to ask directions from a dog walker. Dogs are not allowed in Sydenham Hill Wood during Spring, so I should have sussed out we were in a different wood!

We have been meaning to go back several times but haven't yet. It was a strange and eerie place to visit, like a sunken wood in a secret valley. It is clearly teeming with wildlife, all sorts of trees and woodland plants, and nesting boxes. According to Wikipedia: 

it is home to over 200 species of trees and flowering plants. A multitude of fungi, rare insects, birds and elusive woodland mammals including the Wood mouse] are also present.

I increasingly find it frustrating that not only do I rarely know one species of tree or bird from another but I also rarely even see birds that are supposed to be in places. I now have apps on my phone to identify birds and trees, but, as with flowers, you need a broad idea of what they might be, or resemble, in order to narrow them down. Besides, when out walking, who wants to spend the entire time consulting phone apps. Surely the point is exercise and fresh air - the 'walk' bit - and an open almost passive awareness of the surroundings, seeing it and absorbing it, rather than actively pursuing sights of specific objects!

A couple of weeks after we visited the BBC published this narrated Slide Show, just over four minutes

 

View Larger Map

Wikipedia Page

LB Southwark page

Wildlife Trusts

Sydenham Hill Woods from Transpontine blog

Sydenham Hill Wood and Folly from thelondonphile blog

Thames Tributary Effra -Sydenham Hill from Edith's Streets

The mysteries of the night wood remain from Daniel Greenwood